STATEN ISLAND, N.Y. — Every now and then, we can all use a solid food tour of neighborhoods with high concentrations of restaurants. This time around, Stapleton grabs the spotlight, specifically in the Urby complex, for a do-it-yourself restaurant crawl.
Architecturally, there is no other compilation of restaurants like this in a single corridor or strip mall on Staten Island. Sleek and modern, the spaces of each dining spot around Navy Pier Court are visually striking backdrops. Indeed, that unique atmosphere of each address, stamped on the footprint of the former Navy homeport, elevates an eating experience. And the places in Urby tend not to disappoint in that department.
Urby certainly has kept this food reporter busy. In its almost five-year life span, the residential-commercial complex has exemplified the ebb-and-flow of the restaurant business overall with its openings and closings. By my count 13 entities have shut and two have shown their resiliency by morphing into different concepts under the same ownership.
Note that Wynwood Cafe is on pause, at the moment, after suffering a flood in a summer rainstorm. A new wine and liquor store has been ready to open for about a year, awaiting its license.
As a food destination, one can only hope that Urby’s menus, drink programs and family-friendly eats can be the magnet for patrons from all shores — and beyond. At the moment, I’m liking the place a lot.
Let’s start with the universal treat on which everyone has an opinion and where Staten Island has the best — pizza. There’s greatness in pies right here on Navy Pier Court.
SEPPE
3 Navy Pier Ct., Stapleton
718-727-3773
Slip into the corner, light-filled eatery for lunch and take in the shiny details of the space — black and white tiles plus a partially open kitchen to catch some chef action. At night, the lighting makes the space more conducive to date night and/or kicking back with pals for drinks at the handsome bar.
That leads us into the sophisticated cocktail program at Seppe — think Negroni, “spritzes” and Old Fashioned’s plus seasonal elixirs made with premium ingredients. Later in fall, we will welcome back the cider-inspired cocktails and spiked hot chocolate with house-made marshmallows.
Pizzas are great — nice combinations that show someone’s thinking outside the pizza box — with thoughtful details to stoke fine pings on the palate. “Pep in Your Step” (jalapeños, pepperoni and hot honey) or “The Jimmy” (chicken cutlets and fiery pepper) are big sellers, says owner Joe Iovino.
Desserts in a modest lineup are made by Dana Iovino, Joe’s wife — hot chocolate chip cookies, olive oil cake with fresh whipped cream and pistachios, plus an Afogato, vanilla gelato, Averna and espresso, to name a few.
Seppe is open daily at noon, Monday through Wednesday til 10 p.m. ; Thursday, Friday, Saturday til 11 p.m. and Sunday til 9 p.m. There is indoor and outdoor seating plus live music from 7 p.m. to 9 p.m. on Saturdays thanks to a partnership with Maker Park Radio.
EGGER’S ICE CREAM
8 Navy Pier Ct.
718-0509-0998
Take the cone or cup and walk over to a bench that overlooks the harbor. Or savor a scoop inside the tree house-like dining area on a rainy day. Fall flavors are on tap with Apple Pie, Chocolate Almond Fudge and Pumpkin. Spelling Bee is a special style for back to school, a tasty way to teach kids how to spell “marshmallow” and “cinnamon” (its flavor profile) via alphabet letter cookies sprinkled throughout.
The location is booking birthday parties once again.
Open only open on the weekends with hours on Thursday from 3 p.m. to 9:30 p.m., Friday from 3 p.m. to 10 p.m., Saturday from 3 p.m. to 10 p.m. and Sunday from 3 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.
AMERICANO CAFE
8 Navy Pier Ct., Stapleton
Now in its fifth iteration, Americano features grab-and-go items plus lots of beverages with a salubrious bent. (Pump up on protein and turmeric boosts!) The coffee is great as are the nice folks making the lattes. There are nooks in the cafe that are as quiet as a library.
Open daily from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.
PASTAVINO
44 Navy Pier Ct., Stapleton
When there’s a Michelin-regarded chef in charge of a place, it speaks volumes about how the food is composed. With that, a few words about Josh Laurano, executive chef, are in order. His pedigree includes famed Del Posto and Babbo plus La Sirena at the Maritime Hotel where he earned the restaurant its Michelin star. He came to Staten Island and bosses (celebrity chefs) Vic Rallo and Dave Pasternack in 2019 when (now) Pastavino was Barca, a top-notch seafood spot.
Just before the pandemic restrictions kicked in, the management here with John Gorga pivoted with a more affordable version of its seasonal Italian food. And here came Pastavino with its from-scratch pastas, carefully composed dishes and, again, a focus on the sea.
The attention to detail in the ever-changing menu, wine list and cocktail program lands it in ranks of top eateries of the borough, hands down. With its own talented pastry department under the tutelage of Kathryn Fernandez you just can’t go wrong.
Sit outside to be closer to the water and enjoy the sea breeze or peek at the harbor from a handsome dining room.
Hours are Monday through Thursday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. and Sunday from 3 p.m. to 8 p.m.
NAVY PIER
7 Navy Pier Ct., Stapleton
Alright, we’re at the end of our Urby eating journey and this stop is at the complex’s freshly reopened Navy Pier. Executive chef is (once again) the venerable Josh Laurano and manager John Gorga. Pastry chef Kathryn Fernandez crafts desserts for here, too.
In the last rendition of 7 Navy Pier Court we saw two concepts — a first floor taproom and second floor steakhouse. Prior to that it was Surf.
A few things have carried over from those trial-and-error, pandemic-afflicted iterations with this place called just “Navy Pier.” First, we have the beautiful wood-smoke cooking. Then, we have a second floor, linen-cloth, dimly lit dining room with panoramic harbor views and a clubhouse-like lounge to which to retire after a seasons-inspired meal. The first floor keeps its casual vibe with a space called “Fifty Whiskey Bar” with, yes, a focus on whiskeys and a comfortable spot for parties of one.
There is no outside dining at the moment. Reservations are a must for upstairs and encouraged for those dining at the bar.
Hours are Wednesday through Saturday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. and Sunday from 3 p.m. to 8 p.m. As the restaurant gets its legs, it will expand days and times.
Pamela Silvestri is Advance Food Editor. She can be reached at silvestri@siadvance.com.
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