Unlike other foodie cities in the USA, Miami has had few notable Chinese restaurants, so I was happy to try a newcomer to the Miami food scene, and one with two “new” twists. Jia restaurant features elevated Cantonese cuisine, one of eight kinds of cooking styles in China, whose origin can be traced back 2,000 years to the early Han dynasty. Cantonese is about mild spices and fresh ingredients so the natural flavors can shine through. Jia also bills itself as a dinner club offering music programmed by LA based artist advisor Hayes Bradley. Soon to come is a late night menu on Thursday through Saturday from 11 p.m. to 1 a.m.
In the South of Fifth area with high profile neighbors like Milos, Joe’s, Prime 112 and Stubborn Seed, Jia restaurant is helmed by Executive Chef Weng Choon “William” Lai who has won numerous awards in Asia. His menu is designed to fuse authentic Chinese classics with a contemporary twist. Jia owner Ken Ray said he decided to focus on Cantonese cooking because of the emphasis on the freshness of the ingredients and the contrast of flavors and textures.
Ray has fashioned a setting that is bold and loaded with design and color, a fusion of Chinese, the tropics and contemporary culture. Think Chiang Mai dragon veiled walls, rustic natural wood accents and focal bamboo chandeliers. At the 12 person seated wrap around marble bar Ray tapped Miami Ink tattoo artists to create custom hand painted Asian murals to complement the bar’s raffia back drop with Chinoiserie decorative art. There’s also a private lounge area/dining room seating up to 25 guests.
We had a tough time choosing from a large, appealing menu divided into appetizers; rice and noodles; dim sum; air, land and sea; and vegetable sides. We started with the short rib dumpling, a winner. The wrapper was made of spinach and filled with short rib, peppers and scallions. Unlike any dumplings I’ve had before, they were minis — delicate, and a work of culinary art. In fact, they looked like flowers ($12). They were delicious, and had us wanting to try the other varieties including siew mai– edamame, mushroom, prawn, and mixed seafood and pork belly– next time.
Next up was one of the chef’s signature dishes, the JIA crispy mushroom salad. Royal trumpet mushrooms were lightly fried and combined with preserved red bean curd, arugula, red cabbage, lollo rossa (red leaf lettuce), tomato and watermelon radish ($17), a welcome change from usual salads one finds.
The black truffle sticky rice caught our eye and the sweetness was a surprise. But then I read about how Cantonese cuisine can be sweet (think sweet and sour pork). It’s made with glutinous rice, fresh black truffle and truffle paste ($14). For our main dish we tried the crispy Hunan style red snapper, a handsome presentation with fried chunks of fish resting on a whole snapper and garnished with scallions, chilies, cilantro, and served with black beans ($46). Next time I’d like to try the signature claypot three cup chicken with Thai basil, rice wine, soy sauce and sesame oil.
Dessert was what will be one of my best desserts of the year – a mango meringue tart, in my book superior to the usual lemon tart. The pastry was just right, a foil for the sweetness of the mango and the creaminess of the meringue ($14).
There’s an original cocktail menu including a category called the “big stuff” that serves 6 to 8 people. I love the name “Disco Ball” that includes vodka, plum, cranberry, orange oil and champagne. Cocktails are priced ranging from $16 to $18.
A glass of wine (5 ounce pour) starts at $14 and a bottle at $50.
Jia, 808 1st Street, Miami Beach 33139 (T.786-206-1063). Valet parking is available.
