Tom Ford RTW Spring 2022

Rodin Banica for WWD

Tom Ford is co-chairing Monday evening’s Met Gala in New York, where most guests are likely to be dressed to the hilt. But on the runway, he focused on one of Los Angeles’ recent contributions to American fashion: casual flash, shaped by what pops on celebrities, on social media and on the basketball court.

Apparently when son Jack announced that what he wanted to wear to Zoom school was “basketball silks,” as the designer called them in his show notes, it caused some consternation in the Ford-Buckley household.

After initially resisting like any fashion designer dad probably would, Ford acquiesced. Then he decided to make it the starting point for a collection. (No word on whether the family is team Lakers or Clippers.)

The timing was prescient. Ath-lingerie, you might call it, has been a big trend this week, including on the runway of LaQuan Smith, who was sitting in Ford’s front row. It’s part of fashion’s ’90s love fest, and Ford was the O.G. of that era. So the silky cargo pants, cropped tie-front sequin tops and basketball shorts, and “Tom Ford” logo bra tops he showed should have a special kind of street cred.

He also reclaimed the iconic red velvet suit he designed 25 years ago at Gucci. Famously worn by Gwyneth Paltrow to the MTV Video Awards in 1996, the suit turned up in April in Alessandro Michele’s runway show celebrating Gucci’s 100-year anniversary. Ford altered it with a different cut and shorts, giving it a sexy new currency.

As for the chunky gold chains on early hip-hop stars and ’90s fashion runways, Ford brought those back, too. In addition to gold chain necklaces, cuffs and sculptural stiletto heels, he used them as embellishment on status denim jackets embroidered all over with tiny gold chains. They looked good.

The last several looks were a goldmine, in fact, including the bride, dressed for a home wedding by the pool, perhaps, in gold track pants, silver sequin duster coat and bikini top. That second Bennifer engagement could be nigh.