When most people start getting interested in timepieces, the first thing that usually attracts them is the appearance. A distinctive dial, a unique case shape, even a nice strap can draw in the uninitiated. Then they notice watches whose hands sweep smoothly, driven by springs and gears versus the tick-tick that gives away battery driven hands. Next, they learn about the complex mechanical engines inside watches and the companies that build them in-house โ and their focus soon narrows to far fewer, and pricier, brands. Then, there’s the echelon of small-volume, hand-built watches by independent watchmakers.
You might think that an appreciation for these timepieces is the zenith in the evolution of the watch connoisseur. Not necessarily.
Watchmaking was traditionally (and in many cases, literally) a cottage industry. At first, individual watchmakers labored in their remote workshops in the Swiss Alps, taking weeks and months at a time to produce a single timepiece. These were true artisans, working by hand with crude tools. The results were one-of-a-kind masterpieces, signed by the artists and cherished by their owners.
When the Industrial Revolution spread, the needs and means for larger scale production of watches led to specialization. While many companies still built entire products themselves, others turned to these specialists to provide specific components โ hands, dials, cases and movements. Assembly, decoration and adjustment of watches became the province of many brands, and there was no shame in this. All of the components of the industry worked in harmony, much like the watches themselves.
Companies like Unitas, Venus, Lemania and Valjoux were movement specialists, providing calibers, in various states of completion, to the big watch brands from Breitling to Patek Philippe to Rolex. This only made sense at a time when computer-aided design was unheard of and designing and prototyping new movements could take years. The vaunted Valjoux calibre 72 was found in many of the great chronographs of the 1960s, from the Heuer Carrera to the Rolex Daytona.
Did the fact that these watches used a movement that was not โin-houseโ make them any less great? On the contrary, they are still much sought after and revered by collectors today. The Omega Speedmaster Professional, perhaps the most famous chronograph of all, which was worn on the Moon, was powered by a Lemania movement. Patek Philippe chronographs were born from Lemania base calibers up until not so long ago.