So, you think you can’t grow roses in Central Oregon? Yes, you can. Provided you understand a few things about their requirements. The Madras Garden Club maintains the memorial rose garden at the Jefferson County fairgrounds. Over the years, we have learned what works best, and what to watch out for.
Understanding what roses need will help you succeed:
Soil. It all starts with the soil. Roses require more organic material than our native sandy loam. Before you plant, be sure to mix in equal amounts of mulch to native soil to at least a foot deep, and water it well. This will encourage roots to grow more deeply. Roses need moist but well-drained soil. Annually thereafter, roses in Central Oregon perform best with an application of mulch (1-2 inches) to conserve moisture.
Sighting your roses. Sunlight requirements are a minimum of 6 to 8 hours daily. Morning sun is preferable. Also, we receive intense winds here, so a sight protected from the wind is best. Ventilation is also important, so give them 3 ft. of space from their neighbor.
Hardiness. If you had a favorite rose from a more moderate climate, it may not survive in Central Oregon. Big box stores and chain stores often carry plants that will not survive our winters. Surprise! Depending on your specific situation, look for roses rated for a hardiness zone of five or lower. Many of the roses I’ve seen recently are zone 7, grown for the Willamette valley climate. If the tag doesn’t state the zone, look it up. Give preference for disease-resistant varieties. Another issue is own root roses versus grafted roses. Own root roses are the same plant from foot to tip, grown from cuttings to maturity. They are best for several reasons, but mostly because a grafted rose may have rootstock that is hardy, but the grafted flowering portion of the plant may be less hardy. A few of the roses at the Madras Memorial Rose Garden were grafted varieties for which the graft died during a hard winter. The red flowering rootstock lived, so the rose was no longer a beautiful Grandiflora yellow rose. Own root roses also often live many years longer than grafted roses.
Water. Using a timer is best to ensure the plant receives 1 to 2 inches of water per week. Give it more in severe heat waves. Water early in the day, and avoid watering the leaves to avoid fungal diseases.
Fertilize. Early spring after pruning is a great time to apply fertilizer, and water it in thoroughly. A time-release fertilizer works well. You can also apply a light fertilizer after the first flush of blooms have faded.
Pruning. Early spring pruning is a must for Hybrid teas and Grandiflora rose bushes. But when? Weather doesn’t always follow the calendar. I had heard that you should prune when the forsythia blooms, but was hesitant to print it unless I could find a reliable source. Luck was with me. Cornell University Cooperative Extension of Rockland County, Publication Hort 98, on Rose Care, Pruning: “In our area, pruning of these popular roses is done in early spring as the forsythia begins to flower.” The forsythia bloom time is actually tied to soil temperature, when the top six inches reaches 55 degrees. Who wants to go out and keep checking soil temperature? It’s easier to watch the forsythia bloom.
The spring pruning focus is to remove dead, diseased, puny, and crossing branches, and allow for better air circulation within the plant. It is easier to prune before it has leafed out so you can see better. The early pruning also encourages vigorous new growth.
Fall pruning helps protect the plant as winter approaches. Prune the stems back to protect them from heavy wind damage. Depending on the rose variety, Floribunda and Grandifloras should be pruned to mid-thigh or shorter. Climbers should be pruned only when dormant to remove overly thin twiggy, dead, and diseased growth. Prune only laterals coming off the main stem and leave at least 3-5 eyes on each.
Old garden roses which bloom only once per year, should be pruned after the bloom is complete. Typically, the purpose is to maintain size, and to remove spindly growth and dead wood.
Before you prune, be sure to sterilize your loppers or pruners with alcohol to prevent the spread of disease.
Deadheading. After the blooms have faded, prune off the spent blooms by cutting the flower stem back to the first set of five-leaflet leaves. Deadheading encourages more bud growth. If you leave the spent blooms on, the plant puts energy into the seed pod rather than the production of new flower buds.
Disease and pest control. Roses in Central Oregon suffer less disease than the valley due to the dryer climate. An annual application of dormant oil spray can be applied before bud breaks in the spring. The Madras rose garden suffers from aphids every spring. A treatment of insecticidal soap with a spritzer bottle on a cloudy day covering the leaves on both sides usually does the trick.
Winter Care. Our winters are very cold, so your roses will need protection. After a heavy frost and as temperatures drop, it is time to add mulch, light soil, or bark around the base of the plant to about six inches or higher to protect the root crown (and/or graft). Be careful not to pull this mulch from the root base as those roots still need protection. Winter is a good time to apply new mulch, which can then be removed from the crown and spread around the plant each spring.
Roses do really well here, given the right conditions. You can do it too.
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