I’m rather particular about burritos. (If you are too, this list is obviously for you.) Being a California girl—on my non-French maternal side—I’m fond of all the Golden State styles. I love a Mission-style burrito, from my days dwelling near San Francisco, when I prowled Dolores and Mission to handle the heft of overstuffed blimps wrapped tightly in foil. I’ve dallied deeply with L.A.’s style, purchased from food trucks or fancy Silver Lake coffee shops, and with the iconic San Diego-style, melding meat, beans, cheese, and potatoes (later, French fries, which you know as the Cali). In Texas, I’ve come to love the heftier, stick-to-your-ribs, meat-and-potatoes or guisado styles hailing from Northern Mexico, from whence our flour tortilla tradition comes.