Sunshine, warmth, friends and family: It’s grill-time. Though there are many year-round grillers — those dedicated citizens who step outside in freezing temps and tend whatever is sizzling away on the grates — summer and fall bring everyone to the open flame. We eschew the long braises and slow cookery of winter’s traditional ingredient lineup, and instead focus on the seeming miracle of ripe produce that needs only a glance of heat and some simple seasoning to shine. And though burgers might be the de facto choice to center the plate, fish is just as easy — and epitomizes the lightness of the season.