Demna Gvasalia’s debut haute couture collection for Balenciaga has been a long time coming. The house announced it was reviving its made-to-measure business, shuttered since 1968, in January 2020. When the pandemic hit, it scuttled both a July 2020 and a January 2021 launch. With Paris finally reopening, Gvasalia’s vision for couture is at last hitting the runway next month.
Designers & Collectionsanothermag.com
Lead ImageGucci Autumn/Winter 2021Photography by Kevin Tachman. Unprecedented. A word that, however ubiquitous now, has come to define the past year. It also feels like an appropriate way to describe Gucci’s latest collection, revealed last week. Marking its 100th birthday, the collection, titled Aria, represented a fusion of the Italian fashion house’s codes and one of its French counterparts’, Balenciaga. Not a collaboration, as the brand has been keen to clarify, the collection was the first expression of creative director Alessandro Michele’s so-called “hacking lab” – an extension of his alchemic approach to fashion, whereby he will draw on not only different continents, cultures and centuries, as he has done throughout his tenure at Gucci, but different designers, too – in this instance Demna Gvasalia, Balenciaga’s creative director, and Tom Ford, one of his predecessors at the brand. Plundering the “nonconformist rigour” of Gvasalia and the “sexual tension” of Ford, along with the silhouette of Marilyn Monroe and the glamour of old Hollywood, Aria felt new, exciting and, to use that word again, unprecedented. Unsurprisingly, the collection went viral.