Alexis Mabille

Alexis Mabille showed his fall collection at the empty Paris landmark Le Boeuf sur le Toit, where models posed at the bar, walked on mirrored tables and moved through a bare, stainless-steel kitchen. The designer himself redid the interior of the famed ’20s cabaret before the pandemic struck — without an inkling, no doubt, that the plush setting would one day resonate so strongly, albeit via a screen, with a public yearning for nightlife. He had provided the setting, and, as reopenings are beginning to feel within reach, here he gave us the fashion, offering crisp A-line dresses in piqué silk, mostly in blues and golds, along with the occasional brocard number and more fluid pieces, too.

Alexis Mabille went back to a runway format, filmed inside an empty Salle Pleyel, using it to highlight the all-important movement in what he described as “structured flou” creations. The designer said the heart of his inspiration had been the goddess Voluptas, the daughter of Psyche and Eros in Roman...