Eels are delicious: Despite a slimy, snake-like appearance, their tender, rich meat is a favorite in everything from seaside fish fries to sushi to haute cuisine. But today’s eel lover faces a dilemma. The three major species of edible eels (American, European, and Japanese eels) are all endangered, some critically so. Many eels appearing on menus are raised in China, where limited regulation means that eel farms can import the fish from illegal or sustainably fished populations, and then grow them using potentially harmful chemicals. So what’s an ethical eel eater to do?