Drive north on Money Road out of Greenwood, Mississippi, and the town gives way in a hurry to cotton and corn, an occasional house set back from the road. Another few miles and the Little Zion M.B. Church appears, white clapboard, gravestones scattered beneath the trees, many of the stones so old the lettering is worn away. Here is the final resting place of fabled bluesman Robert Johnson, littered with mini bottles of bourbon left as tribute. Not much farther down the road, you’ll find the country store where 14-year-old Emmett Till was accused of whistling at a white woman in the summer of 1955. A few days later, he was abducted, beaten, and shot. His mother insisted on an open casket to show the world how he’d suffered at the hands of racists in the South.