Caceres serves classic comida criolla dishes like ají de gallina, shredded chicken in ají amarillo pepper sauce, along with the kind of bites found on Lima’s streets. Order anything with his hand-cut fries. In salchipapas, they’re mixed with chopped hot dogs and served with sauces, like a peppery ají verde. It’s the kind of dish any hot-dog-loving Chicagoan can get behind. Though you’ll find lomo saltado — beef tenderloin with fries, tomatoes, onions, and a smoky soy sauce — all over town, I’ve never had one as good as this, thanks to those crisp-tender fries and a deft hand with the wok.