In a changing restaurant scene, Twin Cities businesses turn to community for support

ST. PAUL, Minn. — Change seems to be the only constant in the Twin Cities restaurant scene. From openings and closing to unionizing, there's been a lot of volatility in the industry, especially since the pandemic.

"It was a dream of mine that I didn't even think would be a reality," Jason Dorweiler said.

It was almost a decade ago when Dorweiler opened Tori Ramen in St. Paul.

"It was packed, it was booming, we did really well. In comparison to now, I would say it was easy," he said.

But the fallout from the pandemic and economic times that have followed, now has him struggling to keep his dream alive. The latest setback is a big payment due at the end of Septmeber to finish the purchase of Tori Ramen's new location. He's turned to the community for help, launching a GoFundMe fundraiser.

"It was my last step I didn't even want to do it. I don't like providing nothing and getting something in return," said Dorweiler.

If he's unable to make the payment, Dorweiler worries he'll have to close.

"I'm going to do everything I can to make that not happen because that would be the end of my dream. It would be crushing for me," said Dorweiler.

He's not the only restaurant owner navigating uncharted territory. The owner of May Day Cafe in Minneapolis is selling his business after more than 20 years.

"It's really a staple of the Powderhorn community and such an important gathering space for the neighborhood. When neighbors heard the café was going to be sold a lot of them were worried it was going to close," May Day Cafe Barista Mira Klein said.

To avoid that, some of May Day's employees are trying to buy the business themselves, a concept known as worker cooperative ownership.

"It's not a super common business model, but we're certainly not the first," Klein said.

Klein said they're trying to raise $250,000 by the fall to complete the purchase. They've also asked the community for help in an online fundraiser.

"This is really an opportunity to keep the café not only alive but really in community hands," Klein said.

There's been a wave of labor organizing in Twin Cities restaurants. Workers have formed unions at several establishments to ask for better pay, benefits and workplace conditions.

"In food service, it's meaningful, important work, to provide nourishment for people and we want that meaningful work to be reflected in the structure of the workplace itself," Klein said.

Both Tori Ramen and the workers of May Day Cafe hope to complete their fundraising goals by this fall.