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Talk of the Towns: 2.18.26

Grand south grand / frontenac | Journalists across the metro have covered the debut and/or demise of countless eateries, but only I can tell you of the demise of one dear to my stomach and the resurrection of another within the last month: RIP, Canyon Café at Plaza Frontenac, and welcome back with a wide-open mouth to classic Persian cuisine at the Gin Room, formerly Café Natasha, 3200 South Grand Blvd., just southeast of Tower Grove Park! Café Natasha was founded in 2001 by Hamishe Bahrami and her late husband, Behshid, and named after their daughter, Natasha. Hamishe came out of retirement and is again cooking and presenting her Persian dishes at the Gin Room, working alongside Natasha as a mother-daughter team. When I lived in Tower Grove East from 2010 to 2015, it was a favorite walk-to culinary destination that I introduced to many friends and my second wife, Cate, with great enthusiasm. Shish kebab, ooh la la! Once I became a U. City resident with a salmon aficionado for my better half, Canyon Café was a short hop from Delmar to the Plaza Frontenac for her frequent must-have: the lemon salmon. The half-pound bacon cheeseburger from there was more than enough to satisfy my incessant urge for a big hunk of charbroiled beef, its bun baked with shreds of jalapeno and other hot peppers right inside, like nothing else east of New Mexico. Alas, the torches outside the restaurant had been extinguished for good as of Jan. 25.

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